Monday, October 31, 2011

Mi don ekkita Fulfulde tum tum!



I’ve been at post for over two months now.  My days consist of exercising, learning Fulfulde (Mi don ekkita Fulfulde tum tum – I learn Fulfulde everyday), passing the time at my community host’s house, learning to cook traditional Cameroonian dishes, cleaning my house, washing my cloths by hand, exercising and taking care of my adorable puppy and kitten.
This is Kiikide, my Cameroonian kitten.  He is named after the Fulfulde word for night since he is all black.  They are also superstitious about black cats here.  So, I took him in to save him from his inevitable future of being used as a sacrifice in the practice of black magic.  My counterpart takes care of him when I visit the city.  She LOVES him and so does her four-year-old son.  They love him so much that he sleeps in their bed when he stays at their house (simply does not happen in Cameroon).  He is obviously the village favorite between my two pets, which isn’t surprising because the village recognizes the use of cats for rodent catching.  He loves to sit on my shoulder and is obsessed in having my attention at all times. 


This is Kalankalank, my Cameroonian pup.  He is named after a traditional Cameroonian sauce.  He is really cute but also very evil.  He likes to pick up Kiikide (my kitten) in his mouth and swing him around … a bit of a problem to say the least.  He has this obsession with sleeping in the dirty dish bowl – very weird.  He also loves to chase the village children.  The kids love to play with him and have slowly gotten over their fear of him.  Dogs aren’t viewed the same here but since it’s the Nassara’s (white woman) dog he is treated differently.



I have met with my GIC, the group of women that save money, several times.  Currently they are saving money for security or sick fund and a fund for special events in the group.  After they have saved enough money for the two categories they plan on saving money for pagne – the gorgeous fabric they use for outfits (photo below) and plan on getting matching outfits made for the group.

Recently, I got to participate in the Ramada fete.  It was a ton of fun and I was decorated with cipa.  It’s a semi-permanent ink and lasts for about 3 weeks.








The Peace Corps assigned a community host to help me integrate into the village.  Below ..


His name is Sahabo and he has three wives and a boatload of children (which I’ve fallen in love with! – I know, me in love with children but it happened here in Africa – who would of thunk).  His role is to introduce me to the community and insure the best integration.  What makes him fantastic is that he understands the reason that I am in village.  Apparently, before I arrived he had a long discussion with the village men.  He stated I was not here for marriage and that I was not here to give money.  I came with ideas to help generate money and improve the village.  He is constantly concerned with my health, well-being and safety.  He has definitely made the transition much easier and I owe him a ton.  He has truly welcomed me into his family (and not as the fourth wife).

Two of Sahabo’s wives, Mama (left) and Kingu (right).  The other lives in the city.

Kingu has three children.  Twins – Yusani, the oldest in the photo, and Halmata (she is currently visiting her grandmother).  Along with Marmet (youngest in photo)

This is Raima.  One of Mama’s children.  She has six children.  I have only met Raima (photo) and her youngest Hadja didi.

I had the responsibility of choosing my counterpart since it is a new post.  My counterpart is the individual that will help me initiate projects in the village.  I choose Sahabo’s second wife, Kingu, to be my counterpart for several reasons.  She speaks French (which only a handful of people do in village), she runs two businesses out of her house and she understands several of the business concepts I have discussed.  She is also the one currently teaching me Fulfulde (Kingu don jangina Fulfulde).  She is very different for a conservative Fulbe woman.  She is incredibly independent and voices her opinion.  I know when I return to the US I will miss her terribly. 

She also feeds me all the time!  She is trying to fatten me up but I refuse to let it happen, it’s a constant battle.  Lets just say I have learned how to say NO!  I also exercise a ton to combat the food they are constantly giving me.  I do have to admit the beef here is really good.  She taught me this fantastic recipe to fry the meat so that it keeps for a week, it is super tasty. 

Usually a traditional Cameroonian dish consists of cous cous and a sauce.  There are three different types of cous cous – cous cous de maize, cous cous du riz, and cous cous de manyunk.  It is basically corn flour, mushed rice, or manyunk flour.   You add the powder of your choice to hot water and then stir into a paste.  I don’t really understand the concept of cous cous du riz.  You cook the rice until it is finished and then you take a long pole and stir it until if forms into a paste, seems like an unnecessary step to me.  The sauces are usually some type of plant that they somehow transform into snotty-like goo (only way I can think of explaining it).  For the longest time the texture made my stomach turn but I actually like it more and more everyday.  There isn’t a ton of flavor in things and they don’t like to use salt.  I’m sure after two years of living on the food here I will miss it when I am back in the states.  





I promise to post more frequently.  The last couple of months have been so crazy.  Time is flying by way too quickly and I can’t seem to learn Fulfulde fast enough.  At least French is somewhat similar to English.  The construction of Fulfulde is easier but the words are so different!!  I keep reminding myself to take one day at a time!  Also, I am sending out air grams at the end of November!  Sorry for the delay to the people that wrote letters.  Specifically my neighbors – I truly appreciated every letter and the photos were fantastic, currently posted on the wall in my house! 

Thursday, August 4, 2011

Almost There!

There is light at the end of the tunnel.  We have 2 weeks until pre-service training (PST) is finished.  Of course then the real work begins.  I will be heading off to my small village.  Then I will start really learning the local language, Fulfulde, with the French that I just learned and still struggle with – should be very interesting.  I just started classes here for Fulfulde.  It's a difficult task, my brain feels like mush after one hour.  My instructor teaches us the Fulfulde with French, talk about a brain ache.

I got a letter from my grandmother asking me what my bathing situation is.  She did the Peace Corps in Tanzania and she had a water bucket on the roof that caught rainwater for her bath (lucky her!).  I dream of such a concept!  No instead, I have a bucket.  That’s right I get to take icy cold bucket baths.  It’s a real motivation for me to exercise before I take a bath here.  I also have to fetch water from the well that is about a quarter of a mile away for my bucket bath.  A lot easier said than done.  I will have the same situation at my post since I don’t have running water.  Which also means that I fetch water for my water filter.  I’m gonna be super fit by the end of my two years here.

See photos below of the past couple of weeks …

This is my nephew in my Cameroonian homestay.  He is the son of my host sister.  He always comes knocking at my door for bon bons.





Christine and I at the July Birthday Celebration.

Natalie and I at the July Birthday Celebration.





Field trip to a local village, Bangou, Cameroon.

Memorial for a slave trade location in Bangou, Cameroon.

Chief's compound in Bangou, Cameroon.





 
Sam and I at Natalie's birthday at a bar in Bafia, Cameroon.

Sunday, July 10, 2011

PHOTOS!!

 Beautiful Adamawa!!

 My living room/new kitchen.  My village purchased the sofas for me!  Which is saying a lot because they are super expensive!


 My pepto-bismal pink house!  I love it!

 My hallway.

 My tree they planted to commemorate my arrival in the village.  It's in the chief's compound.


 Women I will be working with during my 2 years.

 Crystal and I on the voyage from Bafia to Yaounde.

 A typical hut in my village.



 My bus ride from Kognoli to Nagoundre.

The train ride from Yaounde to Nagaoundre.  So Cool!!

Wednesday, July 6, 2011

My village painted my house Pepto-Bismal Pink ... and I think I like it!

I haven't had the opportunity to post anything in the last month because my schedule has been very intense.  I also have been sick more than I have been well which is a constant struggle.  However, my homestay family here in Bafia takes great care of me.  My mind is on constant overdrive.  Somehow I've started to speak French in only 4 weeks!!!  Je parle francais!  This week I had the opportunity to visit my post.

POST:
Brand new - opening post myself
Kognoli, Cameroon
Region: Adamaoua
Population: 1,500
Climate: AMAZING - In the 70s year round! No humidity!! 

The trip to my post was very long.  I have to take a bus from Bafia to Yaounde which can last from 2-4 hours.  Fortunately, we (group going to Adamaoua, North & Extreme North Regions) didn't encounter any problems, it only took us 2 hours.  Then we hung out in Yaounde for a bit. 

Next, we took a taxi to the Train Station.  The train ride was probably one of the most amazing experiences.  We get sleeper cars!!  Each room sleeps 4 people.  Just think Harry Potter.  Every stop has people selling bananas, ananas (pineapple), honey, etc.  We had a 3 hour delay, so the train was 18 hours but it worked out for the best because we got to see the beautiful mountainous adamaoua region! Since I was sick (again); I decided to stay the night in the regional capital, Ngaoudéré.  This is probably the most amazing city I have seen so far in Cameroon.  It is super clean!  The next morning I woke up bright and early and took a bush taxi to my village with my community host.  This took us only 2 hours (typically 4)!! 

My village is so happy to have me.  Which is incredibly overwhelming and fantastic at the same time.  Majority of my village only speaks Fulfude.  Meaning, that I now have to continue to learn french in the next 6 weeks but I also have to start to learn Fulfude (should be very interesting). 

My village built me a brand new house right next to the chief's compound.  My house is huge and my village painted it pepto-bismal pink outside and inside (pictures will be coming soon!).  It has two bedrooms.  One bedroom is a guest room and has a separate entrance.  It has a huge salon (living room/kitchen/dining room).  An indoor latrine and outdoor latrine ... that's right une toilette traditionnelle.  But I can totally manage.  There is no running water but there are plenty of sources in the area.  I also only have electricity on Monday & Friday and from 5/6 pm to 10/11 pm every night, which is really the only time you use it. 

The only problem is that there is no phone service!  There are call boxes in my village but they are out in the open.  I'm planning on getting an internet antenna and internet key but I hear that skype doesn't work with them.  But I can always do email.  I do have to travel to the capital every month for banking so I can get my phone time in during my monthly visits.

Currently, I am staying in Ngaoudéré.  Tomorrow, I open my bank account in the capital which can sometimes be a very very very lengthy process. Then on Friday I am back to Bafia to complete training.  I wish I was staying here in my village.  I am so excited to have my own private space and start work with my village.  They are supper motivated as well!  Should be an incredibly difficult but rewarding two years!!!

Friday, May 13, 2011

Just Being ... and so the adventure begins

t took me a while to decide what I was going to name this blog.  It didn't come to me until I was laying in savasana during a Sunday night yin yoga class.  My instructor recited the following excerpt ....


Just Being

How many of you have become frantic waiting for a ride to the airport or some other event that you couldn't be late for? You get agitated and frustrated and feel helpless, yet what does this accomplish?

A Buddhist man was staying in an apartment with friends.  When he was ready to leave, he went down to the street to wait for his ride to the airport.  Some time later when his friends looked out the window, he was still there.  His ride was obviously late, but what struck the people looking down at him was that "he wasn't waiting, he wasn't coming, he wasn't going --- he was at peace, just being."

It took me a while to cultivate the state of being.  But months later, when we were being driving through the mountains of Colorado to the Denver airport and I had a flat tire, I was prepared.  When I couldn't find the jack and the driver said her husband had it in their other car, I was still prepared.  When a truck stopped and offered to help us and changed the tire faster then I could have with the proper equipment, I was ready.


It was at this moment that I set my intention for my Peace Corps experience to come ... to just be in the moment.  This intention will not be easy nor will my stay in Cameroon, Africa.  But I believe to fully appreciate and manage this challenging experience I need to stop the "what if" game and simply let things be what they will be.  So, on June 1st I will meet my fellow business advising volunteers in Philadelphia, PA.  June 2nd we depart for Brussels and then onto Yaounde, Cameroon.

And so the adventure begins...